Dateline: Fri 12 June. When I moved to Winston-Salem 25 years ago upon joining the faculty of Wake Forest University, I took up residence in a faculty apartment...and it was the first time I had a kitchen since before I started my PhD program at the University of Virginia. (Well, except for a couple of summer sub-leases in my poor doc student days.) I had accumulated an incredible pent-up desire to cook things and had collected tons of recipes when visiting friends in various places. But I'd also followed the wise advice of friend and UVA mentor John Lloyd and subscribed to Cook's Illustrated. One of the earliest recipes I attempted from one of the first issues I received told me that cooking could seem both fancy and infinitely possible: steak au poivre. It's something I've made numerous times over the years, although when it appeared here Friday a week ago, it was the first time in about two years. I also made well-buttered mashed potatoes and roasted up herbed whole green beans. The crowning touch was the peppercorn-shallot cream sauce, which was really just glorious covering it all.
"Steak au Poivre," by Dawn Yanagihara. In Cook's Illustrated, September & October 2001, p. 8-9.
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