Early last week, after coming across a sizable cache of great new ice cream recipes to try (mostly from SeriousEats.com), I opted to tackle a preliminary step for a number of them and toasted a big batch of sugar. Why toast it? To see if it indeed enriches the flavors and develops a compelling complexity from the hints of caramel infused in the non-melted sugar. The first batch I experimented with was speculoos ice cream, made with those classic Biscoff cookies that used to be the best thing about flying on Delta. And boy howdy was it ever fantastic! Strangely, each bite of this ice cream offered a flavor profile reminiscent of getting to the end of an ice cream sandwich. Which is rather odd, since the ice cream has no cocoa or chocolate. I guess there's something special about the wafers of ice cream sandwiches that parallels the speculoos sensations when they are deeply infused in ice cream.
"Homemade Speculoos Ice Cream," by Stella Parks of SeriousEats.com. [Published 29 June 2017; Updated 22 May 2020]
Toasted Sugar, based on "How To Make Rich, Flavorful Caramel without Melting Sugar," by Stella Parks of SeriousEats.com. [Published 16 May 2016; Updated 30 October 2019]
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