Every once in a while I have to return to this finer variation of carbonara, built upon bucatini pasta and silkened with several egg yolks. That was the quickly whipped up supper last Friday evening, as the bitter cold of a biting winter made clear its malcontent with Winston-Salem. I still knocked out a 5-mile walk that afternoon without pushing my pace very hard, and then I defeated all those healthy good works with that rather unhealthy dinner. And a cookie afterwards. It helped make up for the 19°F to which I awakened that morning.
Adapted from "Bucatini Carbonara," by Linton Hopkins. In Food & Wine, July 2009.
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